Travelling to Jordan and unsure where to go? Looking for some tips for Jordan, where to stay in Jordan and the places to visit in Jordan - well hopefully the below can help you plan your trip. Its an amazing place with so much to do!
We went in November which actually was the perfect time. Temperatures were around 20-25 degrees, there was very few people there (so few we got upgraded everywhere) and we had Petra almost to ourselves at the start of the day. So we'd recommend shoulder season for sure! Not sure we fancy mid summer hiking in Petra!
7 Days in Jordan - What to do and where to go
So in broad outline we decided on the following route going through Jordan. It's all fairly flexible and short enough distances that you can really switch it around. We want to give a broad outline and then we will go in to more detail below with what to do in Jordan.
What you need to know for Jordan - Top 5 tips on Jordan you need to know
Hire Cars. We got ours through Discover Cars - it was very cheap and cost us around $75 for the 7 days which we thought was crazy really. Yes it was a small little car and not terribly quick, but it was smart and well kept.
Jordan Pass: This is 100% worth getting and saves you so much money. It not only gives you your visa (which is more expensive) but also gives you access to 40 plus places to visit for free (PS this doesn't include Night Petra)
Clothing: Refer to our other post on what 'Women should wear in Jordan'. It's more relaxed that we thought but in general - wear light clothes, linens etc. Take some good trainers for hiking in Petra and for the Dead Sea you can wear any swimsuit you want. It is very Western
Safety: Jordan is extremely safe. Not once did we feel threatened or remotely bothered by anything. The people are all lovely and looked after us so well - there are police around most places so absolutely don't worry about safety in Jordan.
Sim Cards. You can pick these up on arrival but if you want to organise in advance we used Airalo. This is what we did and it worked perfectly.
Day one - Arrive in Amman and drive to Kerak
So we got through Amman airport super quickly. The Airport is very modern and everything sees to be done promptly. We were in our vehicle in no time and heading south to Kerak. This is around two hours away from Amman and the perfect 'first stop' on the way down to Wadi Rum and Petra.
We stayed at this cute bubble VRBO right next to the castle. It was perfect and the host was amazing. We spent the next morning exploring the castle and admiring the scenery. Once we had done this we were on our way south to Wadi Rum. The drive is around three and a half hours down with a wee stop so it's not so bad.
TOP TIP - go the mountain route here out of Kerak. Route 35 - it's so worth it.
Day 2 and 3 - Wadi Rum
You know Wadi Rum - the famous film set place. Renowned for things such as Lawrence of Arabia, Star Wars, Dune etc etc. You can see why - this place is utterly spectacular.
Again we arrived and checked in to our hotel again booked through VRBO. We paid about £80 a night for our stay - it had amazing views, you could see the stars at night. Be aware that you don't need to do the tours from the visitor's centre, your hotel will have guides for main Wadi Rum and also for camel rides and all sorts.
The Jeep ride for 4 hours was great - it cost around $75 each and we thought that was more than worth it. The scenery and the guides knowledge was amazing. We visited Lawrence of Arabia's house - give it a google, as well as all the other big sites.
The Camel Ride in the evening was also really worth it, our guide from Sudan was fantastic. It cost $80 for the hour or so that we went out at sunset. We would really recommend going at Sunset for the good lighting for photos etc.
We did the Camel Tour on Day 2 and then settled in to an evening at the hotel. We climbed up to the top of the rocks and watched the stars from there. Our Hotel had a boardwalk up to the top which was really quite something.
Day 3 was pretty much entirely taken up by our Jeep Tour - they provided lunch for us for an extra $10 and we loved it. 100% a must do.
We left Wadi Rum on the second afternoon in order to get down to Petra. We were keen to get to Petra by Night. The drive between the two was around 1 hr and 45 minutes.
Petra by Night
So we thought we'd give this a little bit of attention as lots of people will want to do it. Petra by night runs on a Monday, Wednesday and Thursday evening starting at 2030. It's not included in the Jordan Pass so be aware of that as its 17 JOD added on. Make sure to get there early especially during summer season.
The walk down to the Treasury takes 20 minutes at a brisk pace.
Now we're going to be honest - is Petra by night the best thing in the world? Sadly it really isn't. The whole thing is a bit of a tourist trap and you find yourself there with about half the rest of the world. But would i do it again - yes i would. However what i would probably do is spend the day in Petra, watch sunset somewhere and then walk to the Treasury when it is dark again and get your pictures.
Petra by night is very crammed. When we were there the local Bedouins were basically having an argument and a fight during the whole thing which made it not quite the same experience. The Music they put on is also pretty shocking and has no relevance or introduction. It's all quite random. But let's be honest - you're going to do it aren't you.
Day 3-5 Petra
We stayed at Seven Wonders Luxury Camp which you can book through VRBO . We paid £180 for two nights. This place was so worth it. They looked after us - upgraded us not just one room but two. Comes with dinner and breakfast included. We loved it. It is actually at Little Petra but only a ten minute drive to the main Petra entrance.
We only planned to spend one main day in Petra as we are young (and Giles is a real taskmaster on the hikes) but we felt that if we were going to spend the time walking to and from the Treasury which adds an hour we might as well get stuck in. If you want it more leisurely go for two days.
We arrived at the Treasury at 0630 and we cannot recommend this enough. The place was empty! As you can see below we got all the shots that we wanted.
Now you're probably thinking. What are the best vantage points at the treasury? How did we get these without paying?
SO! We paid a local Bedouin 10 JOD (that's it) and only because he was going to take the photos for us otherwise we wouldn't have done. They will badger you to the end of the world but you DON'T need to pay at all.
The photo on the right you can do yourself - just hop up. The photo on the left is what we technically 'paid for' BUT you can just walk there yourself. Simply turn left as you enter, walk behind the shop/loos and you will see the path up.
The Bedouins will try their best to make you pay. Just be obstinate and keep going - they can't do anything. They will try and sell you the 'high viewpoint' that saves you an hour or two walking. This is utter rubbish, it saves maybe ten minutes and they'll charge you.
The photo BELOW is even easier. You just have to walk the Tombs trail and keep going to the end - when you think you have reached the end just keep going. You will find a little cafe where you pay 1 JOD for tea and enjoy the view for as long as you like. You're welcome!
So yes once you've done the Treasury these are the Top trails to do in Petra.
Head to the Royal Tombs (Al-Khubtha) trail first. This will get you the photos above and it's quite interesting. You will need to return the route you came so there isn't a loop on this one.
2. Next we did the City Complex. Spent about an hour cruising around here seeing all the bits to see. We also brought our own lunch here so we sat down and had that here before we began what was the hike to the Monastery.
3. Then it's up to the Monastery. This hike isn't challenging per say but it is a lot of steps. Like a lot! Imagine doing your stairs at home but probably 500 times - it's not far off that. It took us probably an hour or hour and a half to walk to the top. That was with a few stops off as well. There is a cafe at the top and its reasonably priced - we ate here.
4. From here it's back down the way you came - if you don't have ripped calves by the end of this i don't know what you are doing wrong. But luckily it is much easier and you're back to the City Complex in no time.
5. Our final trail of the day was up to the High Place of Sacrifice. Again amazing views and a lot of stairs but we made it. This trail is also pretty much walking back to the entrance at the Treasury so you are sort of killing two birds with one stone.
The walking was a lot - we did just over 30,000 steps in the day, covered over 25km. Make sure to wear suitable clothing, light and airy with trainers or boots. Take lots of water! The trails in Petra are awesome but you can't want to be caught out.
From there we exited via the Treasury which by now was absolutely rammed full of tourists on their Go karts and camel rides but quite funny to see the before and after compared to 0630 in the morning.
We then headed to Cave Bar which serves alcohol just at the entrance to Petra. We really needed that after the day of walking and beers are around £7 but after a day like that it is so worth it.
We finished the day back in our hotel to be honest absolutely exhausted after the day of walking so we were very happy for an early night.
Day 5 - Petra and Dead Sea
On day 5 we discovered a little riding centre called the Mountain stables (check them out on google) just next to our hotel that offered horse rides. Both of us love that so rather than walk around Little Petra we decided to get a horse instead. See what we have done there! We paid $100 for the two of us. We loved it.
After our morning ride we were back on the road and on to the Dead sea. Our down time following a lot of walking over the last few days. It's a three hour drive between the two but it's a lovely drive with stunning views.
We booked in to the Marriott Hotel Dead Sea. The place was great - I think they thought we were on our Honeymoon which was rather amusing (see pictures below) but hey we'll take it.
We spent two days here just relaxing by the pool and enjoying the mud scrub and spa area.
Top Tips for the Dead sea
Make sure you don't have any cuts or open wounds (a shaving cut or whatever is fine don't worry too much)
Wear your usual swim suit or bikini but make sure to wash it off
Get the floating 'reading book' photo
Be sure to wear either the hotels 'Jelly shoes' or your own shoes to go in the water. The edge is crystallized salt so can be very sharp.
It's very Western so females especially can wear what they like!
Final Day - AMMAN
After two days in the Dead Sea it was time to head back to the airport but we managed to spend most of the day in Amman. It is worth going to the center of town and seeing the Old Colosseum there and the temples/castle on the top of the hills. It is really quite spectacular.
Other recommendations for Food in Amman:
Knafeh - you have to try out Habibah Sweets. Recommended by a friend that lives there and it's so good!
Hashem - does great local Jordan food. Don't be put off by the exterior the experience is great and authenic.
Finally check out the Souq Al Sukar; it's got lots to see and do/buy.
That was the end of our 7 days in Jordan and we loved the place. So much to do and see in Jordan. The people in Jordan are lovely and very helpful. This was probably our least 'expected' holiday we have been on in years and we loved it. Be sure to follow us for more or check out our Social media on Instagram - @Golly_Wanderlust.
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