The North coast 500
To get us started on the Blog - probably my favourite holiday I've ever undertaken (and I've done a few!) was the North Coast 500 in Scotland - however I suppose I could be biased being from Scotland.
This started as a last minute holiday - planned probably a couple of weeks before we went and so in the best ways of travelling this was off the cuff. So use this as an outline of your trip but always take time to do your own thing otherwise you will just live someone else's trip.
We did 8 days altogether and this was actually the perfect amount. But you could easily extend and take your time around the coastline. There is so much to explore. Equally you could tag on a trip to Skye should that also take your fancy. We decided to go just before the Easter holidays and just before the midgie season - it was perfect. Nearly everywhere we went, campsites and locals told us off how horribly busy it is in the holidays and summer. If you can go as it breaks to Spring!
We decided that an Airbnb style holiday wasn't for us - however we will highlight some cheap places to stay on Route 500 that you can book through booking.com. We wanted to explore! So a campervan it was but with prices sky high, we used a site called www.goboony.com. Here we picked up campervan owned by a lovely lady - rather Airbnb style but for Campervans.
Our route saw us take on some amazing places and over the 8 days we covered the following places! We will go in to detail of each below:
Applecross
Gairloch/Big Sands
Achmelvich/Old Man of Stoor Lighthouse
Kinlochbervie (Sandwood Beach Bay)
Balnakiel Beach (Durness)
Dunnet Beach - via John O'Groats
The Black Isle
Home!
Applecross
Having picked up our van we headed across the long winding and amazingly beautiful road towards Applecross. You can opt to take the less steep and wiggling route - DON'T! The route up and over is insane; Bealach na Bà - just make sure the best driver is at the wheel! Looking back down the valley as in the picture below is spectacular.
Once down in Applecross, the Applecross Inn is a great place to stop. We went there for dinner and it was a great and local feel with good food and local ales to drink. One of our favourite places and this was only the first stop. The whole peninsula is worth a tour around and has the heritage centre there as well to visit.
If like us you are camping or in a van; here's a top tip- drive on through Applecross and down to a place called Toscaig harbour. This is a tiny and remote pier where no one goes. But the views are spectacular and you are left alone by the masses.
If camping isn't for you then why not check out this little Booking.com Bnb: https://www.booking.com/Share-c0zVmh. It has everything you could possibly want and is run by a lovely couple!
We were sad to leave Applecross but with so much of the road ahead it was time to get going the next morning. Advice on the driving - always take the scenic route on the NC500. To go on the easy route for us just meant you missed something.
Gairloch/Big Sands
Our second day was spent navigating the various small roads and awesome views that the west coast NC500 has to offer - and the beaches. This was a constant of our trip and our Dog - Harry absolutely loved it. We spent the night at Big Sands campsite - mostly in order to recharge our motorhome and get some amenities. There is also a Hostel nearby that offers cheap accommodation https://www.booking.com/Share-Hx3dBX.
Gairloch beach is a great place to visit.
Day Three - Ullapool - Achmelvich
Awaking on day 3 we had one of our biggest days of driving ahead of us. While only two hours to Ullapool it is slow going and during the summer months would be even slower. So stock up on a cool box, take your time and accept it for what it is. I couldn't believe some of the scenery.
We arrived in Ullapool just in time for lunch and the Seafood Shack is 100% the place to stop. It is well known and the food was exceptional. It's a short walk from the harbour which is also well worth a look. There are a number of boutique shops here as well and probably the last major town you will come to on the trip. Be sure to stock up on the essentials going forward.
On the route be sure to stop at Ardvreck Castle - Giles actually went to Ardvreck school in Crieff but had no idea that this was here. As you can see - Harry loved it!
Then it was back on the road again headed for Achmelvich - Everyone has heard of this beach and spot. Rightly so! It is amazing. You need to add this to your list to go to. We thought this was the best beach on the NC500 but just wait till you see about the other ones coming up!! Luckily a friend had recommended us a little tip which you have to follow - walk over the headland from Achmelvich beach were there will be a few other tourists and you find this place below. On a clear sunny day you might think you were in the Caribbean with not a soul in sight. We even went for a swim - pack a wetsuit.
We thought we would stay here for the night - but it was a touch busy! One can stay at the hostel near the beach https://www.booking.com/Share-ARoub4
We however headed on wishing to find a quieter spot to park up and decided we would drive until we found somewhere. We saw a random sign maybe 10-15 minutes later for 'Old Stoor Lighthouse' and thought we would check it out. This is probably the most atmospheric place we stayed on the trip. A lone lighthouse with little else around, properly exposed to the elements - how's that for a view! So we parked up the van and that was us for the evening.
Sandwood Bay - NC500
Day four and back on the road again - this time heading for Sandwood Bay. This was around an hour and half drive up to Kinlochbervie where we parked the van and took to foot - our first major hike of the trip. It was around two hours there and back so expect to spend most of the day once you have spent some time at the beach. Be sure to take some food and drink with you - as you'll also end up spending time on the beach. This hike is worth it! As you come up and over the hill the view opens up and you are greeted by the below view - Just WOW!
Head down the hill and it only gets better as you head up and over the dunes. There is over a mile of unspoilt beach around here and barely anyone to share it with. Literally your own expansive beach to spend the day on. Again we downed clothes (not entirely!) and went for a swim in the pretty chilly sea but after our 2 hour walk we were hot anyway.
The hike back felt like a disappointment as we were leaving such a spot behind but as we continually found on this trip - every new location came up with something different and new. From a man who was brought up in Scotland i couldn't really believe it at the end. We spent the night in a nice spot near Kinlochbervie and what would be our final night on the West coast as we now headed for Durness and the north coast of Scotland
Durness/Balnakiel
As we left the West Coast, we felt a degree of sadness leaving what had been what we thought were some of the best beaches on the NC500. Surely the north coast couldn't be as good? Luckily for us this didn't dissapoint and our first stop at Balnakiel was a prime example of this. Make sure you go to the beach itself and a little trick for the lucky campers who get there early is that there is a few parking spots which you can stay and camp in right on the beach and around by the golf course. There is also a youth hostel nearby https://www.booking.com/hotel/gb/durness-youth-hostel-syha-hostelling-scotland.en-gb.html
As you can see from the pictures - the beach at Balnakiel is pretty awesome and frankly we thought we were in Barbados. It was that good. There is a lovely walk up and over the headland at the far end of the beach that gives you a good view out over the Atlantic.
There is also a local campsite at Durness so if you want something more permanent than check that out.
A very good tourist attraction in the area is Smoo caves https://smoocavetours.com/
You can book tours at the above link - we did one and it was well worth it.
Dunnet Head
Alas another day passed and it was again time to move on again - this time across the entirety of the North of Scotland, over Loch Eribol to our next stop at Dunnet Head. Thurso is a good stop off if you need supplies and has good supermarkets there as well.
The drive across the North Coast is probably one of the windiest drives of the whole NC500 - it is a fairly exposed but stunning coastline. There are numerous cafes and stops along the way to check out so don't be afraid to just stop as you go and sample the local food.
Once at Dunnet Head after what had been a fairly long day driving - we decided we could push one further up to Dunnet Head lighthouse. Make sure you walk up to the top of the Cairn, it's a stunning view. We could barely stand up right in the strong winds but was amazing how far you could see from here. We were going to camp up here but given the high winds we didn't really fancy it so much. So we went to Dunnet beach and found a little spot on the far left hand edge of the track down a little track off the main road - it was a great spot too! Worth trying to find as around the area can be quite strict on free camping.
There is also the 'Rock Rose Gin' brewery close to Dunnet beach. We went for a tour and ended up buying quite a few bottles to enjoy over the next few days! It was really good stuff and i still order from there even today. We enjoyed a few in the campervan overnight and the next day it was off to Castle of May to check out the Queen Mother's old residence. As someone in the military i was fairly buzzing to see this and it was a great place to visit. It is a stunning castle set in a picturesque setting. The Tour is well worth is and the guides are very knowledgeable.
After Castle of May it was on to John O'Groats - probably the most disappointing stop on the trip. I am not quite sure what we entirely expected but it wasn't the small collection of drab houses and rather obvious tourist shops - you can see below what Harry thought of it!. However - there is an excellent Fish and chip shop there called 'the Cabin' who did an excellent fish and chips with all the trimmings. It is certainly worth a stop.
Following on from this it was onwards to the Duncansby Stacks. Park by the lighthouse and then walk up to the cliffs. It is a stunning walk and the amount of seabirds you can see in the area is stunning for those that are that way inclined.
Black Isle
Next it was down to the Black Isle near Inverness. The east coast road is easy to drive but not quite as stunning as its West Coast partner. There are a few stops down the road but we would probably have spent longer on the West Coast if we knew what we were coming across. Nevertheless Dunrobin Castle in Sutherland was a worthwhile stop and we spent hours in the stunning grounds of the castle and soaking in the history
After our stop at the castle it was on to the Black Isle. Here we found the famous 'Clootie Well' near the village of Munlochy. Here you find cloth hanging all over the place and off trees. When used at the clootie wells in Scotland, Ireland, and the Isle of Man, the pieces of cloth are generally dipped in the water of the holy well and then tied to a branch while a prayer of supplication is said to the spirit of the well – in modern times usually a saint, but in pre-Christian times a goddess or local nature spirit.[2] This is most often done by those seeking healing, though some may do it simply to honour the spirit of the well. In either case, many see this as a probable continuation of the ancient Celtic practice of leaving votive offerings in wells or pits
The Black Isle brewery is also a great stop. We did a brewery tour and had a few beers, and bought a few for a later date. They are really good beers and again i order these regularly to my house even now. They have a great service and a really nice group of people who work there.
While you are in the Black Isle be sure to go and visit Cromaty and try and see the dolphins out in the Moray Firth. They can usually be seen between there and Fort George. We managed to spot some which was wonderful!
We spent our final night on the NC500 at a Foresty camp site that we discovered by complete accident! We can't actually remember even where it is it was that random but goes with our advice at the start - use this is a feeler and make your own trip as you go. It is much more exciting.
That wraps up our take on the NC500! We hope you have had an amazing time reading the blog. Please give us some feedback on the blog!
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